Beware of allowances and pricey upgrades when looking at specifications by architects, designers and contractors when remodeling or considering a new construction home. Standard features and specifications should be included any construction contract. If you’re considering a mid-priced home or remodel, mid-priced appliances, cabinets, flooring, lighting, plumbing, and windows should be standard, not an upgrade or an allowance.

-An allowance is a monetary value attached to an item of work in a new or remodeled home. If a contract stipulates $1,000 for kitchen countertops, any amount over that, comes out of your pocket as an extra. So, if you decide you want granite countertops, and the allowance is for $1,000, which is for Formica, the difference is your expense. These overages can add up quickly in either remodeling or new home. Allowances can be deceiving if you are not armed with knowledge of what specific home features cost. The largest culprit of low-balled allowances is in the lighting category. Do some comparison-shopping and create a spreadsheet before talking with a builder or contractor for everything from appliances to fireplace mantels. I prefer working with new home- builders and remodeling contractors who don’t feature low prices just to turn around and say almost everything is an upgrade or exceeds unrealistic allowances.

- Upgrades are a profit center for new homebuilders. The pedestal sink you see in a model home could be an upgrade from the standard vanity with cultured marble top. Even sink faucets and door hardware can be extras. Sometimes the fireplace is standard, but a mantel and hearth are upgrades. When visiting sales enters, always ask if the model is finished with standard or upgrades. A follow up question when comparing the lure of advertised prices to what you see in a model home is; “how much is this home as we see it?” You might be surprised at the spread between advertised and actual pricing.

- Standard features should be well defined in sales materials and contracts to purchase. Brand, model number, size, color, finish, and an equal alternative should specify every feature in case the original specification is now discontinued.

If you’re ready to graduate from picking up the expensive per-use bundles of firewood from the local convenience store and have a load of firewood delivered, keep in mind some tips on purchasing firewood in bulk. Firewood comes in two versions, soft or hardwood. The most common hardwoods for burning are elm, hickory, maple and oak. Popular softwoods available are pine and popular. Hardwood is a more efficient heat source and burns at a slower rate than softwoods.

Your first question before committing to any firewood is,” is it seasoned?” Wood should have been cut and stacked for at least one year. This period allows the moisture content to diminish by air-drying. Newly cut wood is heavy and features a sappy appearance on the ends. As wood dries, the bark begins to separate from the core of the tree, look for loose bark, indicating seasoned wood. Green wood with high moisture content can mean trouble for your fireplace chimney. Green wood when burned emits heavy amounts of creosote, which can accumulate in fireplace flues and chimneys, creating a fire hazard.

Fireplace wood should be cut in the standard length of sixteen inches. Firewood is sold in a variety of amounts and delivery methods. Typically you’l1 be quoted prices for full or face cords, and stacked or dumped. Full cords measure four-by-four-by-eight feet, are stacked but un-split. Face cords refer only to the face of a four-by-eight foot stack, only one log or sixteen inches deep. You’ll pay extra for firewood that is split and stacked. Splitting and stacking wood requires considerable time and energy.

As a long-term fireplace fan, I recommend buying only as much wood as you need for one season. After a couple of years, firewood can begin to decay and begin to absorb moisture again. Spend the money on a firewood rack to keep your wood off the ground and allow for air circulation. Nothing beats the glow of a real fire.

Having your very own, custom-built dream home is a lot easier and cheaper than you might think. Although building your own property involves a great deal of planning and hard work, it’s within the reach of most people, especially now that many mortgage lenders will lend on self-build properties. It’s generally much cheaper to build your own house than it is to buy one pre-built. The average cost of a self-build home is approximately £150,000. The return on investment can be much greater too – as soon as it’s built you can expect an increase in value of 25-30% on what you paid to built it.

One of the major hurdles to overcome when considering a self-build project is obtaining the necessary finance. Some people opt to release equity from their existing mortgage, although this may not raise enough to fund the entire project – it depends on the value of the property against the current mortgage on it.

If this isn’t a feasible option, another possibility is to take out a second mortgage. Many lenders offer specially tailored self-build mortgage products. If you go down this route, you’ll need to decide what to do with your existing property. Work out whether you can afford to have two mortgages on the go during the build, to enable you to live in your current house until the new one is ready – or indeed whether there are any mortgage providers prepared to lend you a second mortgage. This can be a convenient way to finance the project, as it means you only have one house move, and mortgage repayments are often cheaper than renting.

If you can’t afford two mortgages, the other options are to sell your current house and move into rented accommodation, stay with family or friends or even buy a mobile home or caravan to live on the building site. The latter may not be a suitable arrangement if you have a young family. Self-build mortgages tend to have similar terms and conditions to conventional mortgages. You could have either repayment or interest only, and the interest rates available (fixed, capped, variable, etc) tend to be the same. The two main differences between self-build mortgages and conventional mortgages are that the maximum loan-to-value that will be provided is normally no more than 75% for self-build, as opposed to up to 95% or even 100% for a conventional domestic mortgage, and the funds are released in stages instead of all at once.

The way in which the funds are released depends on the provider. It’s normally at key stages of the construction for example the laying of the foundations, when the building is wind and watertight, when the roof is complete, but some lenders release the funds upon completion of the stage, and others in advance. The issue with the former, arrears stage payments, is that the money is not available to fund the construction in advance, so it can cause cash flow problems. Some lenders offer advance stage payments, though, which makes it much easier to keep the cash flowing as the project progresses. Whichever way the lender operates, they will almost certainly want to send a surveyor or valuer to check on the progress of the build before they release each payment.

Sometimes up to a third of the cost of a self-build property is the purchase of the land. There isn’t much spare land in the UK so prices are at a premium, particularly in popular built-up areas. Some lenders will be prepared to lend for land purchase, others won’t, or will provide it as a separate loan, so be sure to check this out when doing your research. Most lenders will want to see the architect’s drawings and planning permission before agreeing to lend you any money, as well as a schedule of works – some lenders will put a time limit on the build, often one year.

As well as being a cheaper way to buy a house, self-build has other financial advantages. The cost of building a new home is zero-rated for VAT purposes. You also won’t be subject to capital gains tax on the capital you make from selling the property, and there’s tax relief for financing the new build while remaining in the existing home. Many self-build projects are also exempt from stamp duty as this applies only to the purchase of the land – unless the land price is over £60,000.

If you’re able to arrange funding to build your own home and are confident that you have the management skills to keep on top of the building work as it progresses, then self-build could be the ideal way for you to get the home of your dreams without it costing an arm and a leg.

The Build-It-Yourself industry is a growing sector of new home sales. Many people love the thought of saving thousands of dollars by not hiring a Builder. However, there are a few secrets the Build-It-Yourself industry are not telling potential DIY Builders.

As a Building Consultant and Inspector, I've set through several of these courses just to see what this sector is pushing on unsuspecting consumers.

Here are just a few things the Build-It-Yourself companies either don't tell you or are not completely open and honest about.

1. "You can get the same discounts from vendors just like Builders do." I'd say this is one of the biggest marketing ploys these companies use and it's not true, at least not as far as honest Builders are concerned. You see, Builders have a network of sub-contractors and vendors they use. These subcontractors and vendors give them huge discounts if they keep using their companies. These same vendors and sub-contractors are not going to give you the same discounts even though they tell the Build-It-Yourself company they will. And how will you know if you're really getting that discount? You won't! You're a one time shot where a Builder is repeat business for them.
2. "Builders gouge you on everything, our list of sub-contractors and vendors are the same one Builders use" Again, not entirely true. Many of the better Builders have certain sub-contractors and vendors they will only use. These are the sub contractors that charge more for their work and do not work for just anyone. Many of these type of subs will not work for you or me because they do not know us and because they charge twice as much as the sub on the BIY company list.
3. "We screen all sub-contractors and vendors on our list." Well, yeah, to an extent. You see, most of those sub-contractors and vendors have to pay to be on the "Preferred List" of the BIY companies. If you don't pay, you fail the "screening" process. I've been on several of these list and the only screening I'm aware of was my ability to pay their fees.
4. "You'll be in complete control of the building process" To some extent yes, but more than likely the answer is "only as much as the subs want you to be." What they don't tell you is that if you have a problem with a sub not showing up or doing less than ideal work, you've got to deal with it. A quality Builder has the pull to get things done where you don't. It all goes back to the Builder choosing quality subs and those subs wanting to keep the Builder happy to they'll continue to use their services.

Before jumping into the BIY game, make sure you know the real score. You may save a little bit of money or you may not. I meet with consumers every week that have tried to build their own homes and quickly were overwhelmed by the process or the sub contractors. It's not as easy as it looks and more than likely it will cost you more than what you originally budgeted for if not careful.

Building a new home, renovating an existing house, or doing home improvements to properties, involves considerable planning and has large financial implications to all involved. It is therefore extremely important to appoint a contractor who has the necessary background, expertise and a good track record.

When looking for a contractor you may want to consider the following suggestions:

1. Do not accept the lowest tender just because of the price!

- Ask at least three (3) contractors to quote on the work you want done.
- Stipulate what detail you want specified in the tender and compare the tenders to ensure that the contractors have priced all items and then evaluate the tenders.
- Compare all prices against each other to evaluate why one tender is cheaper than the other.
- Request the contractor to specify in his tender, in detail, what materials are to be used and where, in order to avoid disputes later.
- Contractors may price some items provisionally in order for you to choose from other related products, or if they are unsure of the quantities.
- Make sure that tenders allow for the same provisional quantities and products.
- Carefully examine the tender, and award the tender based on specifications, not only on the price.

2. Read the contract

- Read the contract and make sure of your obligations before signing it.
- Be careful for biased wording in the contract.
- Do not sign any documentation until you formally award the tender to a specific contractor.
- The contract must be properly understood and signed by both parties.

3. Check the contractors references before awarding the tender

- Ask for references and follow them up by phone, or go and see the work that was previously carried out.
- Check whether the quality suits you and find out how the contractor treated his clients before signing, also ask them of the after sales service they received, if any was needed.

4. Do not pay deposits without security

- It is common for contractors to request large deposits up front.

5. Do not pay whenever the contractor request payment

- Payments should be scheduled in the contract and paid accordingly, on receipt of a invoice. Keep record of all payments.

6. Keep records and do not negotiate in good faith without documentation.

- A full written record of all decisions taken between yourself and the contractor should be kept. Dates and pricing (where applicable) should always be mentioned.
- It is normal for decisions to be taken during the contract to change original specifications.
- Before the contractor implements any changes, make sure he has given a price (additional cost or saving) for the change, and be sure that you keep records of all the additional costs, as these extras can mount up in value and influence your budget.

7. Do not accept poor workmanship

To purchase a home for 20 - 50% off retail you have to know how to look for these specific homes. Don't expect a real estate broker to call you out of the blue and offer you one of these homes, although it may happen in a down real estate market. But rarely.

The best way to buy a home for 20 -50% off retail is to use the suggestions in this report. This will steer you in the right direction. The rest is up to you and your determination.

1. Before you start house hunting, make a list of your needs in a house. Keep in mind this must have a balance with what you can afford.

2. If you're a Law enforcement officer, fire fighter, emergency medical technician or schoolteacher you're eligible to participate in HUD's (U.S Housing and Urban Development) Good Neighbor Next Door Program.

This HUD program offers a big incentive in the form of a discount of 50% from the list price of the home. In return, you must commit to live in the property for 36 months as your sole residence.

This excellent program could make your dream of home ownership possible.

3. The HUD 203k Program allows you to purchase a home at below market value because of repairs or improvements needed. In turn, it loans you the money to purchase and rehabilitate the home that instantly increases the value. This is an excellent program to get you into a home and help you build quick equity as well.

4. In addition to HUD (Federal Housing and Urban Development) there may be programs offered by your local and state governments.

5. If you're a single mother consider the Homeownership Voucher Program. This program will help you to meet many of the expenses of home ownership and other benefits.

6. HUD Auctions is an excellent source for finding homes you can purchase for 20-50% off retail. HUD auctioned properties can now inspect HUD homes up for auction at the HUD website. During the inspection period, prospective buyers have the opportunity to "shop" the available listings. You will have time to inspect homes, look at neighborhoods and comparison shop before submitting your auction bid.

7. The Urban Homestead Program is available in most counties in America. This program involves homes foreclosed on and land turned over to city agencies for resale. You can purchase most homes for 20% - 50% below market value.

This program works for people who agree to fix up the home. Most of the homes under this program qualifies for everything for no-payback grants to no-interest rate loans. You can even rent equipment to make many home improvements for free. For more information on this program, contact your City Redevelopment Agency.

8. HUD Dollar Homes Initiative is another program that allows you to buy a home for $1. I know your first reaction to hearing this is "what's the catch?" Right. The only catch is the property is often in low-income neighborhoods and often in the condition where it can't sell to the public.

9. The best values in real estate are "fixer uppers." Fixer uppers are usually the easiest to buy, require the lowest down payment (many times no down payment) and offer the most flexible terms. And best of all they increase in value the fastest, after the necessary work.

10. If you're handy with your hands or know someone who is, it may be to your advantage to concentrate on buying homes sold "As Is." You can expect to get deep discounts when buying a home sold with an "As Is" clause attached.

11. Search your area newspaper classified ads everyday for motivated sellers. How can you recognize motivated sellers? Motivated sellers use certain word clues in their ads. For example, owner flexible, owner will carry, lease option, must sell, no money down, make offer, etc.

These 11 tips will help you get a home for 20% - 50% off retail. Now that you've read these tips, the next important step is to take action. The only way to tell if they'll work is to take action. You have nothing to lose and perhaps a home to gain for 20% - 50% retail.

After the admission of Bulgaria and Romania in European Union, western Europeans will consider to open businesses and to buy or build homes there. But when building a home, everyone has to know that there are steps to be made in order to have all the papers needed for an authorized building, and another steps in conducting the building of the home.

The steps needed in order to have the correct papers for your home, usually are:

1. The sell-Purchase Agreement for the plot of land on which is intended the building of the house, or the agreement for lending the land for the whole period of life of the home.
2. The Certificate of Urbanism, that shows the principal characteristics allowed for constructions in zone, this meaning the total height, H, in meters, admitted for buildings, the maxim number of levels, the occupation coefficient of land, as a percentage from it. It also will specify the surface of the land taken out of agriculture circuit in order to be built.
3. The Detailed Plan of Urbanism, with drawings to show how your home will be arranged between the other buildings or homes of the zone.
4. The Projects of architecture, resistance, installations, and a calculation of the total cost needed for the entire works at the home.
5. Authorization for the Construction and a number for authorizations for all the utilities and facilities.

The steps needed in the real process of building the home, are finally of two kinds: The raising of the building, and the finishing works.

The steps when raising the building are:

* The digging for the place of foundations.
* Realizing of foundation of the home.
* Structure of the home for all levels and the roof.
* Brick walls at outside and inside, realizing the spaces as in project.

There's a reason why more than 80 percent of new home builders hire a general contractor to do the job instead of taking it on themselves. And it's a good reason. Many people would rather leave the complex job of building a home in the capable hands of an experienced professional.

How do you find the best general contractor for your project? Well, it's important to note that not only must the contractor you engage be able to complete a well-built home to your specifications within your budget, the personality and style of the contractor must also work for you.

A good first step is to begin by asking friends and family for recommendations. Once you've identified a group of contractors, put the project out to bid. What does this mean? It means giving the contractor your plans and specifications and asking for an estimate.

Once the contractors put in their bids, you can weed out the ones that are over your budget. But by no means should you go ahead and choose your contractor now based on the lowest bid. Hold up here a second! We are not done here yet, and cost, while important, should never be the determining factor.

Once you have a handful of contractors within budget, take a look at other houses they have built. Do you like the style? Is the craftsmanship good? Do the houses seem well-built? What kind of warranty does the builder offer? Be sure to ask for references from each builder, then ask those references about any problems, if any, they have had with their homes. It's fine too to talk to people not on the reference list, as this may give you some invaluable insight.

The last consideration, and probably the most important to your decision, is how compatible you and your builder are. Are you the type of person who wants to be involved and informed every step of the way? Then a builder who is okay with giving up control is probably a good match for you. On the other hand, if you are busy and don't want to be very involved at all, then you are probably best suited to a take-charge contractor who doesn't require your guidance.